Pour Some Out For The Homie

Bourbon’s ongoing tall tale of laws, lineage and late night lore have lead us loyal readers to the current moment we are experiencing where some of the most inspiring new chapters are being etched into history by some of the spirit’s most classic of characters. Angel’s Envy is a product of such wisdom and whimsy in three expressions conjured by a for real for real legend of the game, Lincoln Henderson. With over forty years of his finger in the mash it is laughable to imagine an accolade unbefitting the man or uncatalogued in the ever-growing legend. Mr. Henderson’s work has blessed glasses in many bottlings like Gentleman Jack, Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel and Woodford Reserve before his name appeared on the bottle of Angel’s Envy.

When charged with the challenge of creating a cocktail featuring the recently bottled phenomenon I was excited. When informed that the Bourbon Hall of Famer with his son and grandson who are up on the family business in tow would appear at it’s debut I was anxious intimidated terrified excited. When I read Mr. Henderson earned a degree in chemistry I was assured there was no bullshitting my way through this.

Sadly, I was never lucky enough to shake the man’s hand as Mr. Henderson passed away in September of 2013 shortly before he was to grace San Francisco with his presence.

For Mr. Henderson

Angel’s Envy Bourbon (43.3% ABV, 86.6 proof) is something. It is aged six years in new charred white oak barrels and the cuts deemed worth of bottling are then aged another three to six months in sixty gallon ruby port casks making it an extremely smooth bourbon. It is indeed from the hands of a master. It is a gold color with red hues and sniffs of the classic bourbon vanilla, raisins, wood and toasted nuts. While it is stupid buttery smooth, it is also incredibly complex with flavors of caramel, vanilla, sticky caramelized fruits, chocolates, smoky oak, maple syrup and even a touch of citrus. It lingers on your lips and tongue like a kiss; an incredible finish that goes on and on.

If the bourbon is something, well, then the Angel’s Envy Rye (50% ABV, 100 proof) is something exceptional. It is ninety-five percent rye in the mash bill and is finished for up to eighteen months in French cognac barrels that were used a second time to age Plantation XO Rum. It is a rich red color and snorts of sweet candy, spices, sherry (duh) and may likely make you drool. The sip smacks of caramel, maple syrup, vanilla, hazelnut, sherry and oak. It finishes sweet and dry; a complete sip.

The Bourbon is something, the Rye is something exceptional, well, the Cask Strength (61.5% ABV, 123 proof) made by the Henderson boys is a masterpiece. Wesley and Kyle, son and grandson of Mr. Henderson poured it when they hung out at Elixir Saloon and while I don’t recall the nuances of such a specific sip I can tell you it was all the jam and as good as they say.

I wanted to try to capture the embodiment of the man and the moment in this cocktail. I wanted some spice like Mr. Henderson’s passion burned, complexity like a lifetime spent in the centuries old art of distilling and even a touch of sweet like every article I read said the man was. Most importantly I wanted the drink to move, to go down with the quickness alike how the malcontent Mr. Henderson was never satisfied. It took a dozen swings and misses according to my notes (and lot’s of doodles of unicorns and hearts by my cousin, the official taster of the night), before a notation from an article (by Dave Wondrich if I’m not mistaken in Whiskey Advocate) about the Panama Cocktail set me on the right path.

When Mr. Henderson first tasted his awesome spirits he joked at the idea of the angel’s share–the five percent average lost to evaporation during the aging process-probably not being large enough when it came to his most recent creation. The idea that the angels would be greedy, licking their lips looking for more, envious of those who have the rest begat the name, Angel’s Envy.

When naming this drink this idea conjured the thought of arguably the most selfish, greedy of all the angels, The Morning Star, Lucifer. With the moment of Mr. Henderson’s passing still looming large, a small adjustment to the name pays homage to the man as well:

The Mourning Star

2 oz Angel’s Envy Bourbon
1/2 oz Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth
1/4 oz Angel’s Envy Rye
1-2 dashes Tabasco Pepper Sauce
1 dash Chocolate Bitters
1 pinch of salt

Rinse a chilled cocktail glass with the rye and set aside. Combine bourbon, vermouth, hot sauce, bitters and salt in a mixing glass, add ice, stir 10-15 seconds. Strain into rinsed cocktail glass and garnish with a flamed orange twist.

A complex cocktail, The Mourning Star has charred flavors of wood brought forward by the burnt orange oils of the surface with sneaky spice and soft nuances of dried chocolate. I also taste a good deal of vanilla through and through. I was proud to serve this drink to kin to Mr. Henderson and consider each burst of fire from the garnish our way of lighting a candle in his remembrance.